i have a 2003 cavalier with the 2.2 ecotec. dont really know to much about the internal componenets of the enigine. so really what parts do i need to be looking for and where will i find most ecotec parts. trying to build it so i can put a hahn racecraft turbo on it.
Not being rude but if you don't know much about engine internal parts, then you shouldn't be considering turbocharging your car yet. First thing first, understand how a engine works and then you can go from there. A proper turbocharged system is a whole other league.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
I posted this for another guy in this field so hope it helps if you have about anything email me at fullboosttyerial@yahoo.com
any ways i would go with a 5sp and you can go to quaife and they have ecotec trans and gears syncros and final drives and LSD ok ok we are done with the tranny problem. now to the engine lets start with your forced induction you desided to go with ok its not my cup of joe but eh its just a guy givin advise the difference i have seen the best thing i found with a supercharger would be consistant boost and at idle but there is only so much you can do with it but as for a turbo is that you can change your mind frequently and still have a BAD ASS car whether you just wanna cruise or you wanna drag i find it funner to constently change boost for my out comes next on the agenda would be injectors call rc engineering if your not goin with a "WET"{wet= they use the injectors to mix the nitrous"DRY" would be any where the air is flowin in filter ect} set up and get 550 l/b per hour and get a fuel pump to supply those like a walboro... next up would be cams they make a wide variady of them for differant things N/A, turbo, s/c, and nitrous they all have different optimum point for the specifice things mixing like nitous and a turbo or s/c you would have to do a little of math for figure it all out or just call a few places that make them and they could give you some really good ideas and also get some cam gear it helps with advanceing and retarding more so then on the pcm variances get a better water pump for more effecient cooling. also get some titanium valves, retainers, springs, keepers and get a 3 angle valve grind for reliability. get some head studs and don't use the torque to yeild bolts the stock ones suck and only suppost to be used once. pistons wisco perfect or eagle is kinda weak but eh. stock crank is usually good for 300 so thats good and as for compression is i would go 8.1 to 11.1 but depending on what your doing. less compression more boost for about the same power and tthe higher it is then more power less boost type scale and headers as long as it gets out it works but i made my own but this is my opinion and my two cents hope it help i didn't go to wyo tech for a year and a half for nothing and 50,000 in debt now so it better help you can email me at fullboosttyerial@yahoo.comlates Dustin
Its Pronounced {TEAR I AL}
YEAH THE ORANGE BITCH CAR HIT FASTER THEN YOUR HONDA!!!!!!
hit a 15.43 on intake and cat back in wendover
Tyerial wrote:I posted this for another guy in this field so hope it helps if you have about anything email me at fullboosttyerial@yahoo.com
any ways i would go with a 5sp and you can go to quaife and they have ecotec trans and gears syncros and final drives and LSD ok ok we are done with the tranny problem. now to the engine lets start with your forced induction you desided to go with ok its not my cup of joe but eh its just a guy givin advise the difference i have seen the best thing i found with a supercharger would be consistant boost and at idle but there is only so much you can do with it but as for a turbo is that you can change your mind frequently and still have a BAD ASS car whether you just wanna cruise or you wanna drag i find it funner to constently change boost for my out comes next on the agenda would be injectors call rc engineering if your not goin with a "WET"{wet= they use the injectors to mix the nitrous"DRY" would be any where the air is flowin in filter ect} set up and get 550 l/b per hour and get a fuel pump to supply those like a walboro... next up would be cams they make a wide variady of them for differant things N/A, turbo, s/c, and nitrous they all have different optimum point for the specifice things mixing like nitous and a turbo or s/c you would have to do a little of math for figure it all out or just call a few places that make them and they could give you some really good ideas and also get some cam gear it helps with advanceing and retarding more so then on the pcm variances get a better water pump for more effecient cooling. also get some titanium valves, retainers, springs, keepers and get a 3 angle valve grind for reliability. get some head studs and don't use the torque to yeild bolts the stock ones suck and only suppost to be used once. pistons wisco perfect or eagle is kinda weak but eh. stock crank is usually good for 300 so thats good and as for compression is i would go 8.1 to 11.1 but depending on what your doing. less compression more boost for about the same power and tthe higher it is then more power less boost type scale and headers as long as it gets out it works but i made my own but this is my opinion and my two cents hope it help i didn't go to wyo tech for a year and a half for nothing and 50,000 in debt now so it better help you can email me at fullboosttyerial@yahoo.comlates Dustin
Wet kits don't use the fuel injectors, they take fuel from your rail and put it into your intake stream. Your injectors of course spray fuel but the additional fuel is from your fuel rail and put into the intake stream. A dry kit is without any fuel lines and is basically relying off of you for additional fueling.
First of all...it's not 550 lb injectors...it's 550 CC (at least I hope to god unless you're giving someone advice on injectors for a funny car or something).
Honestly, your run on sentence of a post / email makes little sense and you're throwing a bunch of company names and expectations that don't make any sense. You just told this guy to buy a bunch of parts and I bet you anything he doesn't know why he would buy them or how even half of them work. Everyone has to start from somewhere but if you're going to offer advice to someone who is new...make sense or know what you're talking about.
I didn't go to tech school and it sounds like I know more about this stuff than you. Thank god I saved my money.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Randy jump over to www.j-body.org or www.ecotecforums.com and read as much as you can about what folks are doing for their cars, and why they did it. for the Hahn kit you can run stock internals at normal (8 psi ) boost level with good power improvements over stock. check out their site as well. after you have read and digested as much as you can hold, ask questions. the reason I say this is because you will be able to ask more informed questions, and people will be more willing to lend a hand because they can tell that you have done your homework and need more.
you can also get more info by reading this book, its free and down-loadable.
http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/Racer-Tech/gm-sport-compact-performance-build-book it will answer allot of questions, there are pictures of almost everything in the book. like NJHK said, jumping in to a turbo is not something to do uninformed.
... and my eyes are bleeding after reading that mess.
Adam- true I was kinda in a hurry but your right I should read it before. Post lol stupid me but it does just get the point maybe long but it works and I'm not telling to buy any thing little bit of research would help too and true cinny more direct questions always helps!
Its Pronounced {TEAR I AL}
YEAH THE ORANGE BITCH CAR HIT FASTER THEN YOUR HONDA!!!!!!
hit a 15.43 on intake and cat back in wendover
