hey, i didnt really feel like searching for longer than i did so if there is anything that will tell me about building an all motor ecotec to the most hp i can get please post the link for that topic.

but i just wanted to know what all i could do to get more power outta the engine. im goin to be puttin a turbo on but not for a lil while because of certain difficulties with the parts i have. im just wondering what else to do other than full exhaust, intake, cams, lower compression pistons, lightweight pullies, poly engine n tranny mounts, new clutch n flywheel, and tuning it? will i have to do anything to the fuel system or what else is there to do?

any help is greatly appreciated

Quote:

lower compression pistons

That is the opposite approach. If you're looking for naturally aspirated power, the higher the compression ratio, the taller the pistons and the tighter the air and fuel mixture will be during the compression stroke.

There are people out there right now doing some good things naturally aspirated.

There is PJ (Flying Skwirl) who is soon to run 13s all motor... http://www.ecotecforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2021

Then there is Fred @ SMG Motorsports who just ran a nice 13 1/4 mile: http://www.ecotecforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3641

It just depends on your approach and you're goals.



www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837

well i am planning on going with a turbo but i wanted to get the power from the motor and make sure it could handle around 300-350 hp (if i can get the from the turbo kit) so that is why i said lower compression but i read a post you said in another topic that said about higher compression pistons on a n/a motor. thanks for the help

Dom J wrote:well i am planning on going with a turbo but i wanted to get the power from the motor and make sure it could handle around 300-350 hp (if i can get the from the turbo kit) so that is why i said lower compression but i read a post you said in another topic that said about higher compression pistons on a n/a motor. thanks for the help

If you really want to go turbocharged, spend your money on getting a proper turbo setup first and foremost cause that's going to be a big project to get it to run properly. After that, if you feel you want to continue foward, then get a spare engine and build it up.

Last thing you want to do is build a motor and you get to the part where you're building up your source of power/air and you can't get it running properly and now you spent thousands of dollars on a engine build that is making you run slower.


www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837

well adam, i thot i already said in another post that i have a full stage 3 turbo kit but i keep hearing that the ecotec connecting rods can only handle 250 hp n the pistons are 300 hp so that is what i am concerned about

if you get a turbo kit instead of supercharger the rods and pistons are capable of more, cause you can cool the air charge. like 15 psi turbo ed is not the same as 15psi with the supercharger. yes same air pressure but one can not have a very accurate way of cooling. also the rods in the 2.2 will go around the 250 to 280 mark only cause of wrist pin area is weak. 2.2 pistons also in the same range. but most of those numbers are if it is blown not turbo ed, witch can be cooled better. hope this helps some.

The whole 250 thing was when GM ran over 100 shot and they simulataneously broke. When you read about nitrous injections and the immediate force they can create, you'll understand why.

There isn't a real answer I can give you though...no one can give you a magical number cause it may or may not be accurate.



www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837

would you happen to know a rough estimate of maybe someone who has close to a higher amount of hp? are the stock lsj n l61 pistons n connecting rods the same?

i know some kid who dynoed his cobalt ss n he was pushin 350+ horse n close to 300 tq with stock internals

Stock L61 internal(except crank) suck, period. 300 is optimistic number for reliable performance from a stock L61.
350hp is about maxed out even in an LSJ with their improved rotating assembly. LSJ's have forged Powedered metal rods, same construction as the LT1 V8 "pink rod"

L61 rods are good for about 250hp, regardless of how you make it, but they HATE nitrous.
If your swapping rods it doesnt make sense NOT to swap pistons at the same time.

The crank is good for over 500hp with nothing more than a nice balance job.

Stock springs start to float around 7000-7500rpm. Stock springs and lash adjusters dont like/wont tolerate higher than stock lift cams. Timing chain, gears, guides are all good for as much as youll ever see on the street. 8,000+rpm operation you should look into solid lash adjusters and a mechanical timing chain adjuster.


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