Hi!Does someonne had crane cams for ecotec installed?Can i have your comments about the performances?Are they doing a big difference or not?Thanks.

I also want to know where the gain is in the rpm band.

Don't know anyone with the crane cams but I'd suggest having some type of fuel management along side of this.



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Why?A lot of people put cams and don't do anything...i think...

well i reccomend getting an upgraded head with cams. the gains arent worth it unless you have more air and fuel.

yes alot of people put cams in and do nothing.....but how much more could they get out of there cams if they had a way to control the fuel and air how much more power they could get.

jason martel wrote:Why?A lot of people put cams and don't do anything...i think...

It doesn't make it the right way of doing things...

Like cheesecake said, air flow and fuel are both important. Your computer doesn't know what to do as far as running at a air to fuel ratio that is maximum in performance for you.

If you don't believe me, I did this in the past. What happened? My computer ran rich as hell at the top end of my powerband to the point it ran like a slug. The computer was just dumping fuel because it didn't know what to do with the amount of airflow that was coming in.

This is my advice to you, take it for what it's worth.



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So what are you suggesting for my a/f ratio to be in the bullseye anytime?

jason martel wrote:So what are you suggesting for my a/f ratio to be in the bullseye anytime?

Possibly in the high 15s, which is on the leaner side. Stoich is 14.7 by the way.

But of course, there isn't any type of "perfect a/f ratio", you tune to your setup.



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Ok,then i put a fuel pressure riser and i put my car on a emission testing machine i could be able to tune it at the good a/f ratio?

just raising fuel pressure isnt tuning a car. look into hp tuners or megasquirt

jason martel wrote:Ok,then i put a fuel pressure riser and i put my car on a emission testing machine i could be able to tune it at the good a/f ratio?

What cheesecake said is correct, raising the fuel pressure isn't really a means of tuning in certain circumstances.

First you need to know if you NEED more fuel before you would even think about doing anything to your fuel system.
And if you need more fuel, you need to figure how much more fuel you need. In certain setups, you might need less fuel because you're too rich for your setup.

Also, you wouldn't go on an emissions testing machine, you'd go to a dyno. Look for a performance shop around you that has one.


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A/F Ratio in the 15's range is too high. High 13's is what you are gonna be looking for under wide open throttle. 14.7 is stoich and thats what your car will be targeting in closed loop..or as you are driving around. When you put your foot down and the car goes into open loop, targeted air fuel should be no higher than 14:1.

Depending on your car, you may have HP Tuners available to you and if you DO go swapping cams, a tune will be very much needed..otherwise there isn't a reason to be doing performance upgrades if you can't have it tuned properly.




CHRIS

if I get this right, with updated software my performance cams would reach their full potential rather than have them running with stock software?

SuN FuyaRRR wrote:if I get this right, with updated software my performance cams would reach their full potential rather than have them running with stock software?

Not necessarily sotftware upgrade, there are other forms of fuel management, but yes, by adjusting your fuel consumption, it will help you improve on performance.


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I know this post is a little old, but I have had my Crane Cams in for a while now. Prolly almost 2 years. It really isn't to much of a difference, maybe a little more perky through the powerband but not by much. I'd go with cheesecake and Adam on this one, an upgraded head with some good porting would really benefit these. Fuel control would help too. If I could I would prolly pull some fuel, cuz last time I checked with my buddies Wideband it was a bit rich. Also, if anyone needs any info on these as far as specs, I have the cam cards that came with them right here beside me. Just ask. Late, Travis

I would say be original and by an Apex S-AFC. $350 and you have 16 points of A/f adjustments. My friend got 10HP out of his stock ford focus because he fine tuned it. Maybe we can get the same on our cars?

Justin Soza wrote:I would say be original and by an Apex S-AFC. $350 and you have 16 points of A/f adjustments. My friend got 10HP out of his stock ford focus because he fine tuned it. Maybe we can get the same on our cars?

Yes, you could.

By the way this is a old thread...


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im looking into a set of cams... i already have bigger injectors, fuel pump and afpr. the pump and injectors are off of an ss/sc. im looking to put a custom turbo kit on and i have the full kit sitting at my house minus the exhaust but my friend is a welder and we are making it within the next two weeks. but i was just wondering also on suggestions for cams and maybe even pistons? I want to go with wiseco personally because its a good trustworthy n quality name. And i was looking at comp cams. I already have the eagle forged connecting rods though. And no im not goin to try to run my car w/o bein tuned. I dont have the money for HP Tuners altho id love that but makin the car capible of handling the turbo kit is more important cuz without the turbo kit i wouldnt need the HP Tuners but i am taking it to slowboys racing in Indiana, Pennsylvania. So it will get tuned right

Dom J wrote:im looking into a set of cams... i already have bigger injectors, fuel pump and afpr. the pump and injectors are off of an ss/sc. im looking to put a custom turbo kit on and i have the full kit sitting at my house minus the exhaust but my friend is a welder and we are making it within the next two weeks. but i was just wondering also on suggestions for cams and maybe even pistons? I want to go with wiseco personally because its a good trustworthy n quality name. And i was looking at comp cams. I already have the eagle forged connecting rods though. And no im not goin to try to run my car w/o bein tuned. I dont have the money for HP Tuners altho id love that but makin the car capible of handling the turbo kit is more important cuz without the turbo kit i wouldnt need the HP Tuners but i am taking it to slowboys racing in Indiana, Pennsylvania. So it will get tuned right

Comp Cams makes Turbo Camshafts

Check out Wiseco Pistons


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Thanks, Adam. Do you have any suggestions about the wiseco piston? I'm still not sure if I should go with a bigger bore or anything along those lines. Do they have different pistons that are stock bore and that will lower the compression ratio? Or will I have to lower the compression ratio? (Dumb question but I'm not too sure if a 10.0 is low enough to run a turbo kit at like 8-10 lbs on a t3/t4 http://www.innovativeturbo.com/pages/cart_itemDetails.asp?sku=SH54 thats the turbo if you need to see a compressor map to tell how the comp ratio will be affected or anything like that). But what exactly are the turbo cams for? Do they help let the exhaust out to spool the turbo quicker or something?

Dom J wrote:Thanks, Adam. Do you have any suggestions about the wiseco piston? I'm still not sure if I should go with a bigger bore or anything along those lines. Do they have different pistons that are stock bore and that will lower the compression ratio? Or will I have to lower the compression ratio? (Dumb question but I'm not too sure if a 10.0 is low enough to run a turbo kit at like 8-10 lbs on a t3/t4 http://www.innovativeturbo.com/pages/cart_itemDetails.asp?sku=SH54 thats the turbo if you need to see a compressor map to tell how the comp ratio will be affected or anything like that). But what exactly are the turbo cams for? Do they help let the exhaust out to spool the turbo quicker or something?

Well, first, I'll explain compression ratio...

Your compression ratio has to do with the distance of the top of the piston to the bottom of the cylinder head at Bottom Dead Center. The longer the distance (less height on the piston), the lower the compression. The taller the piston, the higher the compression.

Yes, you can boost a vehicle with high compression. You could run 12:1 compression ratio and boost x PSI. The whole point is to keep combustion chamber temperatures lower. The less compression, the lower your combustion chamber temps will be during the compression cycle because the fuel and air mixture want be as compressed. To counter-act heat issues, you can retard ignition timing and also run richer in a air to fuel mixture.

Does that make sense to you? I could explain better...

That turbo doesn't look like a exact T3/T4 but it seems like it shares the same characteristics.

Turbo camshafts are aimed for turbocharged vehicles so they can reduce valve overlap on DOHC vehicles. This helps keep some of the exhaust air being sucked back into the combustion chamber when the intake valves are opening. Valve overlap is the time and length of time when the intake valves & exhaust valves are open. The less valve overlap, more of the exhaust flow can go towards the exhaust system which will lead to your turbocharger's turbine so it can be used for mechanical energy.

If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.



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Well now I understand the comp ratio. I did hear about adjusting timing and all that different stuff to get the a/f mix rich. I have an afpr from megan racing so I hope that works.

I was told that the exhaust flange on the turbo would fit t3 style turbo exhaust manifold flanges and it lines up with mine exactly, atleast to my eyes. And the compressor side is a bit bigger. I have the street heat 57, I may have put the wrong link in though.

And finally somone tells me how the cam is better and why.

Thanks Adam for explaining this to me, it helped a lot

Dom J wrote:Well now I understand the comp ratio. I did hear about adjusting timing and all that different stuff to get the a/f mix rich. I have an afpr from megan racing so I hope that works.

I was told that the exhaust flange on the turbo would fit t3 style turbo exhaust manifold flanges and it lines up with mine exactly, atleast to my eyes. And the compressor side is a bit bigger. I have the street heat 57, I may have put the wrong link in though.

And finally somone tells me how the cam is better and why.

Thanks Adam for explaining this to me, it helped a lot

The problem with Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulators is that they adjust your OVERALL fuel pressure. So if you raise your fuel pressure for case of needing more fuel in the higher RPMS, you're also increasing it for when you're at idle. Too much could cause idling issues. Another thing to worry about is how well your injectors will spray & basically operate with a increased pressure.

If it is a T3/T4 or a even a replica T3/T4 (Garrett originally started the whole T3/T4 thing), then the flange style is the same (4 bolts and rectangular).

You're welcome. If you need anymore help, you can reach me privately or just reply here. Good luck.



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