Anybody boosting their ecotec yet or close?
theres a few boosted eco tecs running around
i dunno about boost... its lots of money for an ecotec... especially to do it right.
if you are poor then get the ZEX 60 shot wet kit
you're stock ecotec (2.2L) will be running 210hp alone
throw boost on there (even a stage 1 or 2 kit) and with the right tweaking you could easily be at 325.
Josh Solomon wrote:me...actually kit is for sale. 
redoing it all....
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/detail.php?item=19627
Ummm, I know I can probably check somewhere, but are you the same josh who boosted the stock ecotec in his yellow cavalier to like 21psi? <br>
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Don't own an ecotec yet, but like the motor a lot.
Current cavi has the 2.2 pushrod a.k.a. lack-O-tech
Want to make your cavalier go faster?
Just switch the wires on the MAE (Manifold Absolute Evil) sensor.
I mean, Mine has one, doesn't yours?
Any thoughts on the Goodwrench supercharger kit for the 2.2 Ecotec comming out at the end of the year. 11 psi bolt on and it includes the ECM program. Uses an M62 Eaton same as on the Grand Prix but it can only push 6 psi on the GP because it's a 3.8.
The Grand Prix does not use the M62 supercharger. It uses the M90. The 3.8 is a really built engine, but high boost on bigger displacement engines causes much higher cylinder pressures. So they limit boost to 7-9 psi max on the 3.8L. The Cobalt Supercharged SS has a maximum of 12.5. The GMPP kit for the 2.2L Ecotec will limit boost to a max of 11psi because there is no water to air intercooler on the GMPP kit like there is on the Cobalt. So detonation with the 2.2's lofty 10:1 compression ratio becomes an issue. I think that the GMPP kit is VERY conservatively rated at 175hp. It is the best engineered way to add boost to an Ecotec. ECM reflash, bigger injectors and a 12m/12k warranty, plus remainder of factory powertrain warranty.
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04 Cavy LS Sport 5 Speed (34U) Rally Yellow - RK Sport Front & Rear Strut Tower
connectors. RK Sport "SS" Hood (functional CAI). XM Commander.
Any horsepower loss by using a forge diverter/dump valve instead of a blow-off valve?
Or is this just better for the car all around?
It's supposed to go from intake before the throttle plate to exhaust manifold before the turbo right?
what would be required to bring up the numbers on the GMPP kit up over 200 whp, or even closer to 250 (if possible at all, though I realize this might include MANY mods)
