o2 sensors - Performance Forum
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does not having a oxygen sensor hurt my performance that much? Because i put a full exhaust system but it doesnt seem to have gained any power could that be the problem? {headers-highflow cat turbo muffler and 2.5 in piping}
10.5 second 1/8mile
est hp=130
est tq=135
oh yea i cut out my cat and sensor a year ago and didnt replace the cat til now but still no o2 sensor . some one please help me
10.5 second 1/8mile
est hp=130
est tq=135
2nd O2 sensor will not affect performance at all.
2.5" piping might if the engine is stock. It will decrease the power in the lower band width (lower RPM), but increase it in the higher range(higher RPM). Supposedly 2.25" is enough without compromising power for an engine that is N/A. 2.5" is the starting point if you have forced induction.
Also, if your intake is still stock, that might have something to do with it. An engine expells as much gas as it takes in. So, if the intake sysytem is stock; air going in is not increased to make more air go out.
i have a cold air intake and venom 400. but not having the 02 sensor people tell me it affects the fuel mixture and hurts performance. but it doesn't fell any quicker at all
10.5 second 1/8mile
est hp=130
est tq=135
how do you know all that. and where did you get that info? what do you run in the quater mile? my first time to the track i ran 17's. but that was when it was completely stock. i have a 98 cavalier with 2.2ohv engine. i hope next time i can get it the low 16's or high 15's with the mods. know any good places to get cams for it. thats not too expensive.thanks for the help.
10.5 second 1/8mile
est hp=130
est tq=135
oh and what rpm do you sugest launching off at and what rpm to shift at?
10.5 second 1/8mile
est hp=130
est tq=135
I know information about parts from working at a Saturn dealership in parts & service. Also from reading alot of posts from others who have tried various parts on the J-Body.Org.
How I know about the exhaust is, I saw it in a post, but disregarded it and put 2.5" on my 2200 (2.2ohv). Because I didn't want to redo it when I swapped in my ecotec later on, Which cut the power at lower RPMs. To get some back, (without spending money since I'm saving for an ecotec build and swap) I ported my head exhuast & intake ports, TB, and intake manifold. Which I do not recommend doing unless you have a good idea what is to be done. In doing that, my power range on the RPMs changed dramatically.
When my car was stock, I was shifting around 2.5-3k & launching at about 2-2.5k RPMs.At stock, my car didn't seem to like reving above 3.5-4k RPMs. After the porting I have to shift around 3.75-4.25k & launch around 3-3.5k. I have also continually modded since I have started so the performance was constently changing from stock to where it is now. Each car and driver is different, and we have different engines with drastically different things done, so what is good for me will most likely not be good for you. Same would go for most others, unless the engine had the exact same stuff done, but still they would not perform the same eventhough.
Parts..
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=215434&t=215434
This thread is great, Event knows what he's talking about and is an old school J-Body guy.
I have stopped modding my 2200 and I am researching for the build I'm doing on my ecotec, so I can not tell you what's the best internals for your 98 2.2L; Which is not a 2.2L ecotec, in case you didn't know. No offense if you did.
Price.. all cams are high priced, no matter who you get them from.
I am going to the race track this coming wed, so hopefully I can get some numbers. I have been to busy to go since I moved here a year ago. Which is when I started modding my car.
well let me know what your time is. and yes i do know that its not an ecotec. hopefully when i graduate from college i'll get a colbalt with the ecotec. and i'll be the first im my town to build one. cause i'm going all out on it and boosting it. I'm going to try to get to 300hp out of it. I've got the ecotec build book that tells you how to build it. have you ever heard of it? it tells you how to build it from stock to 250hp then to 400hp then to 600hp then to 1000hp and then to1400hp. and it tells you how to build the chassis
10.5 second 1/8mile
est hp=130
est tq=135
what do you think is better the 2.2 ecotec or the 2.4 ecotec?
10.5 second 1/8mile
est hp=130
est tq=135
That engine makes me wish i would have waited and bought the cobalt SS. I hope some day i could put that motor in my Sunfire.
the way i look at it the longer stroke would realy help my car out because i got a Auto trans and to have more low end grunt would let the car be more fun. with less hassels
Actually the Cobalt SS is a destroked (shorter stroke) - supercharged 2.0 ecotec. GM is supposed to be coming out with a supercharger kit for the 2.2 ecotec p/n 17800003.
fast cavalier ecotec, still haven't been to the track. A friend of mine was gonna go with me to compare our cars' numbers. He's got a 99-01 integra, but he couldn't make it. SO, hopefully this thurs.
Stock vs.. I say the 2.4 becuase it has 30 more hp than 2.2, the 2.0SC( Cobalt SS, Ion Redline) or 2.0TC (Saab 9-3) is the best with 205hp. But, with aftermarket parts available, I would say the 2.2L is better at the moment. Or at least tilll performance parts come out for the 2.4l.
All actuallity, you can convert a standard 2.2 in to a 2.0, buy replacing crank, rods, pistons, and slapping on a SC.
I got my o2 sensor. And this Sunday there is an import race so i'm going to see what my time is with all my mods. but i'll let you know. I raced a turbo pt crusier the other day, in first and second gear we stayed together and third gear that turbo finally spooled up. so i guess that was a pretty good run. what do you think man?
10.5 second 1/8mile
est hp=130
est tq=135
Not bad at all.
Still haven't made it to the track yet. My friend keeps flaking out on me. I think he's afraid to lose to a cavalier.
When you have the PnP and valve job done... make sure they have a "flowbench" to do it on. If not, it would not be wise to let them do it. Also, the price for that machining can run up to $1000. Thats what one here wanted for my ecotec head. So, I'm going to get one from Patriot Performance for about the same price. They have 2200 heads as well.
I've heard of the secret cams, but I have not studied in to it and don't know what the cam specs are. You could get any where from 15-30 HP maybe, from the PnP, valve job and cams. Depends on the how the head was ported if you get oversized valves, and the cam specs.
The guy that is going to do it is going to charge me $100 to port and polish. I know he is good cause every one talks about him.
1
10.5 second 1/8mile
est hp=130
est tq=135
$100? Sounds like he's going to do a DIY port with a dremel, is he? That will increase performance, but nothing near having a real shop with the right machining bench do it.
On top of that, he will have no accurate way to measure the porting that is done. Whether each port is the same size in relation to each other on the head. Also, is he going port the actual valve chamber? Very scary stuff if so. Again without the right machining bench, one chamber might be larger than another, which is not a good thing.
I'm using a 2-1/2" exhaust system on my 03' Ecotec equipped Cavalier. I have a Pacesetter header w/Oxygen sensor already installed. I also have an Autometer EGT gauge with the bung MIG welded to the header collector area (where the 4 pipes merge together). I have a high flow catalytic converter and a stainless steel exhaust 2-1/2" inlet, 4" outlet. I'm running NOS single fogger nozzle setup (I converted to a "WET" system using 26 Fuel/18 NOS jets). The heated O2 sensor that attached to the header went bad. My Autometer Air Fuel ratio gauge would show the swings between lean and rich moving real slow. I hardwired my Actron OBD-II scanner into the car so I could read codes while driving. The error code said O2 sensor slow response #133. After buying a new 02 sensor I have no more error codes. The driveabilty of the car is improved. Acceleration isn't as sluggish. Gas mileage is better since the ECU and PCM are getting the kind of 02 sensor signal they are used to seeing. Not having an 02 sensor is hurting your gas mileage and engine performance. Only when you are at WOT is the engine running OPEN LOOP. When you're not at WOT the engine needs the signal from the 02 sensor to help time the duration the fuel injectors are open and how long each fuel injector stays open, along with signals from the TPS throttle position sensor, MAP manifold absolute pressure and IAT intake air temp sensors. Your catalytic converter will also last longer with the O2 sensor in the signal processing loop. If you don't want to use the real 02 heated 4 wire sensor, try using an 02 simulator from Casper Electronics.
Did casper finally come out with an o2 sim for the eco?
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