ok heres the sim
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heres a picture of my custom test pipe
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heres a pic of the connector
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i removed the sensor from the car. cut the black wire and cap the end going to the sensor it would be the signal wire then solder the end going to the connector to the white wire on the sim
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splice the grey wire and solder the black wire coming from the simulator to it
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for the red wire on the simulator wsloder that to the white wire on the connector the same way you did to the grey wire
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make sure you solder them good and tape them up good or you will have problems
the white wire you would solder the red one two would be the one on the connector by the clip
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and there you have it im ressetting the ecu and ill give you an update if it worked or not
if you have any quiestions post or email me
Ecocav04@gmail.com <br>

its a cavalier i should get 2 cars and the hit

I dont know if its me, or if its because its late at night, but the pictures seem to not show much, and the descriptions arent that well written.

Though good job.

ok here are a better set of directions

1. jack up car
2. follow wire from second o2 sensor to clip by the transmission
3. unclip the connector and remove the o2 sim the soldering will bw much easier
4. the sensor will have 2 white wires a grey wire and a black wire.
5. the sim will have a red a white and a black wire.
6. on the sensor wire cut the black wire cap off the end going to the sensor itself
7. solder the other end of the black wire to the white wire on the simulator
8. splice the grey wire and solder the black wire from the simulator to the grey wire.
9.then look at the connector for the sensor put the tab at the top and the white wire closest to the tab would be the wire you would would use.
10. solder the red wire to the white wire specified in #9 and tape off all conections
11. connect connector to the clip and reinstall o2 sensor and simulator
12. mount the simulator so you can see the light turn on
13. turn ignition in the on position and check to see that the sim light turns on it WILL flash slowly
14. lower car.
15. disconect battery to reset the ecu for about a half an hour
16. reconnect the battery and if the chack engine light doesnt go off then try disconecting the battery again.
17 once alkl this is done start the car and then your all set. <br>

its a cavalier i should get 2 cars and the hit

where did you get the sim from?

Did it work?
Please god tell me it did!!!


LIVIN IN THE STIX

I said this on a previous thread... I would seriously consider giving it a shot:

"Assuming GM uses a narrow band O2 sensor, all the ECU cares about is that the signal from the O2 sensor is reading somewhere around 0.5v. The best way to do this is go to RadioShack and buy a rectifier diode with a switching voltage around 0.5v. (probably 0.45v which is just great) Now find the wire harness for the second O2 sensor and a schematic for it. There should be 4 wires - 2 for the heater element, a reference voltage, and a signal. Cut the signal wire on the sensor side of the harness so it can be easily replaced later if necessary. Then just splice in the diode with the white band facing away from the sensor. Secure the sensor to something so its not dangling about, or just leave it mounted if its bung still exists. Reset your ECU and give it a shot.

As long as the O2 sensor remains there i see no way this can burn anything out, but I have to cover my ass and say its not my fault if your car takes a crap and dies. I figure worst case is the CEL will just come back on and you're back to where you started."


Looking at the pictures above, my guess is the two white wires are your heater element, the grey wire is the reference voltage, and the black wire is the signal. I say this because this is the exact same color combination on my Audi's O2 sensor. I wonder if GM uses Bosch components too?


<img src = "http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/limaxray/thumbnail_personal_pic.jpg" width = "149" height = "143.5">
<B>
mmmm.... Disco Potato goodness
</b>

so did it work? i need one bad. i hate that stupid engine light that always comes on like 15 mins after you reset the computer. also do you think it might help my running rich problem. At least i think i am running rich my tail pipe is very black.


ECOSPEEDZ

I don't think it would have any effect on the performance of your engine. The second O2 sensor only monitors the effectiveness of your cat.

Since its most likely a narrow band O2 sensor, the ECU only cares if the voltage it sends is high or low, (rich or lean) and doesn't care what it is exactly. The sim probably regulates the signal from the O2 sensor so its constantly sending a signal voltage(~0.5v) in the proper range. This is why a diode would work perfectly.


<img src = "http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/limaxray/thumbnail_personal_pic.jpg" width = "149" height = "143.5">
<B>
mmmm.... Disco Potato goodness
</b>

Is that an O2 sim for an Ecotec or 2.4L? If its one for an Ecotec, has your check engine light come on yet?

ok the sim didnt work ive been emailing the guy everday for tha past month with voltages and sensor ranges and everything else he is sending me another sim not sure if its been re worked or its the same one but ill keep you updated


caviefreak: Ya know what I like about winter. Ya can get a bunch of beer out of the fridge and put it in the window sill so ya dont have to make as many trips out to the fridge

I have given up on these crappy o2 sims, so I ordered the magnaflow high flow cat to put back in my exhaust. besides I got a damn ticket for my exhaust being to loud! Should have just as much power with high flow cat, guess we'll see.

ok installed magnaflow high flow cat and now no check engine light, no horsepower loss and a hell of a lot quieter. should get me out of my ticket. lol