hey i've got an 02 automatic sunfire with a 2.2l ecotec engine. so far i've got a ceramic coated 4-1 dc sport header, b&m shift plus, aem cold air intake (nice as @!#$ in mn where its usually 0 degrees), magnaflow 2 1/4 stainless split exhaust. i've decided not get a supercharger or turbo since there aren't any available for the auto tranny cept rsm's and i heard its crap. so i want my car to get up to 14.5 1/4 mile and i was wondering what i should add. A new throttle body (rsm or ebay), stage one cam shafts, gm performance adjustable cam gears, and engine mounts and hopefully run a 14.5 or close to. or buy a dry shot no2 kit and a gen x 2 kit and all the @!#$ to run the nitrous safely. whichever one i decide will be professionally done. has anyone hit the speed limiter with no2 going? oh and if anyone currently knows what my car is running about for a 1/4 or 0-60 it would be cool to know. closest drag track is 3 hours away and no dyno for 4 hours
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i've decided not get a supercharger or turbo since there aren't any available for the auto tranny cept rsm's and i heard its crap.
Umm whoever told you that was wrong.
If you're thinking of Hahn's turbo kit not working for automatics, than yes, that is correct but you can have a turbo on an automatic transmission'd car (hence: look at me).
As far as Superchargers goes, there are two superchargers available for the 2.2 ECOTEC, the one by RSM (Vortech) and now the GM Supercharger (Eaton) and both are able to work on 2.2 ECOTECs that have automatics.
For the most part, when it comes to boost, your transmission has nothing to do with the ability to boost. The only time your transmission plays into effect is fitment and routing certain things like downpipes, intercooler piping, mounting certain things etc etc.
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A new throttle body (rsm or ebay), stage one cam shafts, gm performance adjustable cam gears, and engine mounts and hopefully run a 14.5 or close to.
Stage 1 cams are very mild and won't yield much power to the wheels. A bigger throttle body will hurt your low end power because of lack of velocity. With the adjustable cams gears, in order to tune with them, you would have to run it on a dyno to see how much power gains you are getting or not getting and on top of that, you would have to remove the valve cover everytime you want to adjust it. From my research, our cam timing is pretty much on point and there is no need to get these unless you're more than mildly modified. Engine mounts don't add power, only help with transfering of power slightly.
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buy a dry shot no2 kit and a gen x 2 kit and all the @!#$ to run the nitrous safely.
If I were someone new to the nitrous game, I wouldn't think of getting a dry kit...go wet. Wet kits will supply fuel along with the nitrous injection.
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has anyone hit the speed limiter with no2 going?
Do you mean in a 1/4 mile? I mean, in order to trap speeds at about 108 MPH, you would have to be running either low 13s/high 12s in the 1/4 mile. Either way, if you hit the speed limiter, it'll cut the fuel, so you should take your foot off the pedal so you're not continuing to inject nitrous. Nitrous + No Fuel = Boom
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
If you get a larger grin camshaft the throtlle body will help out more..look into the saturn motor sports ion big bore tb. its 69mm at the opening but goes down to 60mm at the plate.
Saturn motor sports big bore
also look at the smg 62mm throttle body.(fred is a good guy)
smg 62 mm
the good thing about the smg is that there is no core charge and you can keep your original incase you want to go back to a stock throttle body.
unless you want to get bigger injectors in order to run your dry kit go for the nx wet kit. (the stock injectors are at 100% duty cycle stock.wich isnt good)
if you hit the speed limiter your not going to like the outcome. but yes there are a couple people that have had to let off to avoid the speed limiter while using nitrous
I didn't even know about the SMG throttle body. Good find Cheesecake.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
