Hey guys, first timer here on this forum. Name is Clint and like ya'll I have a thirst to quench in raising the hp bar on my car. Now with the intro outta the way on to my questions. I just bought a complete engine (2.2L) and tranny out of a totaled 2006 Ion.
1) I'm wanting to reach (if possible) 250hp at the wheels which I'm aware I need force induction. Which is best for an automatic; turbo or supercharger?
2) Am wanting to add a 75hp shot of nitrous in with the mix. What is a safe compression to run and what steps do I need to take to prep the engine for nitrous?
3) Am wanting to show the engine as well so I want it to look sharp. What is the best way to completely and safely clean a motor and do I need to have the block painted? Am going to for the brand new aluminum look.
4) What header would ya'll recommend? OBX or Pacesetter? I've heard that Pacesetter rusts quickly and easily. Am looking for both looks and power on this part.
5) This may sound stupid, but need help with injectors and ignition. What size injectors do I need, and with nitrous and force induction do I need to upgrade my fuel pump? What ignition system would be best and is this really worth?
More questions to come as I go along the build. It will take sometime since I'm starting school and working parttime and plus I know all this will cost money. Like my father once told me "horsepower costs money, how fast you wanna go?" Will post pics soon. Thanks for the help.
Clint
No offence, but some of your questions contradict themselves kinda. For example, if you get a turbo setup, you won't need an OBX or pacesetter header, cause it is replaced with a turbo manifold(Hahn Racecraft turbo kit for example). Also I believe that the Gm supercharger kit and the Hahn Racecraft turbo kit come with injectors. Now, if you are for SURE gonna run nitrous also, im not sure about what size you would need. If you build your own turbo kit, then you need to find injectors. I've heard that the 2.2's ignition is fine for the power that you are looking at, but could be wrong.
Also wanted to know if it was 250hp+75shot
or stock +TC/SCand 75shot=250
Matthew Strong wrote:No offence, but some of your questions contradict themselves kinda. For example, if you get a turbo setup, you won't need an OBX or pacesetter header, cause it is replaced with a turbo manifold(Hahn Racecraft turbo kit for example). Also I believe that the Gm supercharger kit and the Hahn Racecraft turbo kit come with injectors. Now, if you are for SURE gonna run nitrous also, im not sure about what size you would need. If you build your own turbo kit, then you need to find injectors. I've heard that the 2.2's ignition is fine for the power that you are looking at, but could be wrong.
Also wanted to know if it was 250hp+75shot
or stock +TC/SCand 75shot=250
Agreed on everything you said. To answer Matthews question on the injector size you would need:
If he decides to use a wet shot, the fuel source is coming from his fuel rail and not through his fuel injectors. If he decided to for some reason use a Dry Shot, then he'd have to setup from pretty good setup fuel management wise and will need whatever size injector for whatever type of shot he's aiming for.
And yes, the 2.2s ignition would be fine.
To answer the original posters questions:
1. That's up to you and a preference thing.
2. Lowering the compression has more to do with lowering combustion chamber temperatures because higher compression means tighter (compressed) air/fuel mixture which in theory would be hotter. It's a preventative step to lower the chances of pre-ignition occuring. Stock is 10.0:1 FYI. It's really up to you and how you fully plan on doing your setup. In my opinion, if you're going forced induction, you shouldn't really have to use nitrous in the way you're thinking. I'd be more prone to use it for cooling purposes.
3. WD 40? I'm sure at your local auto store they have all types of cleaners. Just look there.
4. Like Matthew stated, you won't need a header if you're going turbocharged, so like stated, decide on what you want to do. Also, the only pacesetter one that is known for rusting is the non-ceramic coated one.
5. For every one of your questions, it just depends on what you're doing. You're asking a very general question.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Only reason I was asking about the header was if I decide to go S/C. I was told that turbos weren't good with automatics due to unable to change shift points on our cars. I have a decent basic knowledge about cars, but far from being a mechanic. If my questions sound weird or anything I do apologize. Though my knowledge is limited I am a "do-it-yourselfer" type person. As for my nitorus question I'm asking as (250hp + nitrous). What are realistic numbers if I were to go N/A? Talking strickly bolt-ons (interneral and external). Thanks.
Clint
Clint Propps wrote:Only reason I was asking about the header was if I decide to go S/C. I was told that turbos weren't good with automatics due to unable to change shift points on our cars. I have a decent basic knowledge about cars, but far from being a mechanic. If my questions sound weird or anything I do apologize. Though my knowledge is limited I am a "do-it-yourselfer" type person. As for my nitorus question I'm asking as (250hp + nitrous). What are realistic numbers if I were to go N/A? Talking strickly bolt-ons (interneral and external). Thanks.
Clint
Shift Points has nothing really to do with the turbocharger setup and it still works just as effective. The only issue is space, I know this from doing this on my old Sunfire.
As far as naturally aspirated or any other setup when asking how much power you will make, no one can answer this. You would need to come up with a set general plan and do it. See how effective it is.
Also, bolt ons are just items that literally bolt on. Internal engine parts aren't usually referred as bolt on parts.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Made up my mind to go supercharged. My plans now are running about 10psi (again it's going to be a cruiser so I don't wanna over do it), with a 75hp shot of nitrous. My set goal is about 300hp and torque. Is that possible with just a s/c and nos together or will I need to add more? I know the rods need to go, but was thinking about getting a set of cams. What do ya'll think? What are the power limits on the stock auto transmission and stock axles? Thanks.
Clint
Clint my buddy, my friend, my pal...You can get a world of information with the use of the search button. There are many posted threads with answers to your Q's already.
Trust me I'm a newbee as well, and the answers are here for you already.
It's not how fast you go...But how you go fast.
Hey E. D. , sup dude? I have been doing some research and so far (due to lack of time between working and planning a wedding) I have taken off everything, but the transmission and and oil pan and all internals. The half shaft still on and since I don't have a puller it'll have to wait till I get some time to borrow one from a friend. I'm going to be repainting my engine stand (stupid things that guys tend to do) to match the color scheme of my car (blue/silver). So far all I've done is got the engine cover powder coated blue. Am taking the bolts in to get polished in a few days. Next step is to get a set of eagle rods and finish completely taking the motor apart. Will keep anyone who is interested updated as much as possible. Thanks for reading.
B.T.W from what I've found out the stock auto tranny can only hold up to about 190ft lbs....bummer
OK Clit or sorry clint lol sorry any ways i would go with a 5sp and you can go to quaife and they have ecotec trans and gears syncros and final drives and LSD ok ok we are done with the tranny problem. now to the engine lets start with your forced induction you desided to go with ok its not my cup of joe but eh its just a guy givin advise the difference i have seen the best thing i found with a supercharger would be consistant boost and at idle but there is only so much you can do with it but as for a turbo is that you can change your mind frequently and still have a BAD ASS car whether you just wanna cruise or you wanna drag i find it funner to constently change boost for my out comes next on the agenda would be injectors call rc engineering if your not goin with a "WET"{wet= they use the injectors to mix the nitrous"DRY" would be any where the air is flowin in filter ect} set up and get 550 l/b per hour and get a fuel pump to supply those like a walboro... next up would be cams they make a wide variady of them for differant things N/A, turbo, s/c, and nitrous they all have different optimum point for the specifice things mixing like nitous and a turbo or s/c you would have to do a little of math for figure it all out or just call a few places that make them and they could give you some really good ideas and also get some cam gear it helps with advanceing and retarding more so then on the pcm variances get a better water pump for more effecient cooling. also get some titanium valves, retainers, springs, keepers and get a 3 angle valve grind for reliability. get some head studs and don't use the torque to yeild bolts the stock ones suck and only suppost to be used once. pistons wisco perfect or eagle is kinda weak but eh. stock crank is usually good for 300 so thats good and as for compression is i would go 8.1 to 11.1 but depending on what your doing. less compression more boost for about the same power and tthe higher it is then more power less boost type scale and headers as long as it gets out it works but i made my own but this is my opinion and my two cents hope it help i didn't go to wyo tech for a year and a half for nothing and 50,000 in debt now so it better help you can email me at fullboosttyerial@yahoo.com
lates
dustin
Its Pronounced {TEAR I AL}
YEAH THE ORANGE BITCH CAR HIT FASTER THEN YOUR HONDA!!!!!!
hit a 15.43 on intake and cat back in wendover
