Hi, im new to these boards, and had a question about turboing, i just bought a turbo from maximumboost.net, and got a t3/t4 turbo with FMU, i was wondering what you guys thought the safest boost i could put on it, without upgrading anything inside the engine. Thanks in advance
whatever boost setting you set it to, try to stay away from 250+ hp. Connecting rods snap around there
Okay, so if i went to an 8 pound boost or even a 9 pound, would i need to intercool, or is straight turbo enough?
and on a side note, is the 140hp the cavalier is listed at, at the wheels or at the crank?
If you want to run 8-9psi, you are going to want more to your setup than a FMU and a turbo. I believe it recommended that you don't go above 6psi without an intercooler. It sounds like you are just starting out with boost, so try to visit the boost forum on JBO. The Ecotec is still new enough that most of the info on this website is a little shaky. There are a lot more experienced guys over there that have boosted the old 2.2's and Z24's that can guide you. Good luck!
Also, check out the FAQ's in the boost forum and the Ecotec Build Guide that have been compiled on J-body.org . There are a lot of good resources over there.
Uhh if you got a front mount and bigger injectors 330cc's along with a 6:1 fmu you can run 14psi safely. HYPSY runs 16 on that setup and made like 305 at the wheels on 14lbs. Im not sure if its just luck that his motor hasnt blown but i saw him race the other night and that sh*t was quick.
*2012 mazdaspeed3*
Almost turbo Cavy wrote:Uhh if you got a front mount and bigger injectors 330cc's along with a 6:1 fmu you can run 14psi safely. HYPSY runs 16 on that setup and made like 305 at the wheels on 14lbs. Im not sure if its just luck that his motor hasnt blown but i saw him race the other night and that sh*t was quick.
Why do you continually recommend people to skimp on their fuel setups? Everyone wants to save money especially myself. Thats why I put together a custom kit rather than buying one. But fuel will make or break your car. So why not spend the extra cash on it now, rather than a new block or internals later on?
Also 14 psi IS NOT safe on stock internals. For proof of this read the GM build up of the Ecotec in the Cavalier drag car. This can be found in the J-bodies of NY library. Stock rods to 250HP, not 305. It can be done(14psi), but at the risk of rods, pistons, transmission, axles.....etc. There was a guy who ran almost 20 psi on stock internals on a '02 Eco and it didn't break. There was a guy who used Hahn's setup(which is a full kit) and still broke stuff. There is no way to tell when stuff will break if you push it that far.
you should be able to put just under 12 psi safely, i will check the heating calcs and post another message. also i can list a bunch of parts that should be upgraded too, the only problem is that i dont know what is available on the market.
~C
blueakron04 wrote:Almost turbo Cavy wrote:Uhh if you got a front mount and bigger injectors 330cc's along with a 6:1 fmu you can run 14psi safely. HYPSY runs 16 on that setup and made like 305 at the wheels on 14lbs. Im not sure if its just luck that his motor hasnt blown but i saw him race the other night and that sh*t was quick.
Why do you continually recommend people to skimp on their fuel setups? Everyone wants to save money especially myself. Thats why I put together a custom kit rather than buying one. But fuel will make or break your car. So why not spend the extra cash on it now, rather than a new block or internals later on?
Also 14 psi IS NOT safe on stock internals. For proof of this read the GM build up of the Ecotec in the Cavalier drag car. This can be found in the J-bodies of NY library. Stock rods to 250HP, not 305. It can be done(14psi), but at the risk of rods, pistons, transmission, axles.....etc. There was a guy who ran almost 20 psi on stock internals on a '02 Eco and it didn't break. There was a guy who used Hahn's setup(which is a full kit) and still broke stuff. There is no way to tell when stuff will break if you push it that far.
Im just saying what i have seen . Currently www.ryne.com ryne has run 12.81 on stock internals and stock clutch at like 16psi i think. And plus the setup i had with my fmu may have not been "pefect" but i just sold the kit and amazingly when i took the cat out it was black on both sides. Please tell me the last time you saw a motor blow up for running too rich. And yes 250hp is not safe on nitrous. Boost and nitrous act in two very different ways. Plus the stock rating on nitrous with the ecotec con rods are approximately 283hp quoted from that site. Yes injectors and a stand alone ecu would be the best setup. Somehow my vehicle still runs and is on boost project two. I agree an fmu is not a desireable setup i didnt tell anyone oooohhhh get this fmu over injectors and a fuel management system. I just told my experience. And yes the amount of boost can be variable. The more boost you run the more detrimental it is to your motor i understand this. But stop shooting down fmu's becuase your opinion is to spend the money. Not everyone is looking to run 9-12psi. On 7 psi with the correct fmu it'll be fine. If he's worried he can take it to a dyno and make sure.
*2012 mazdaspeed3*
Stock compression on an Ecotec engine is 10:1. B&M's website has a chart showing how much boost you can run in an engine depending on the engine size cubic inch, compression ratio, etc. Hahn Racecraft says their Stage 2 kit will produce 9 Lbs. of boost. I would not run 9 PSI boost in an engine with a 10:1 compression ratio and stock pistons, connecting rods, stock head gasket, stock cylinder head bolts. The most boost I would run would be 4-5 PSI and that would be pushing it with stock components. If the engine sees any kind of lean condition, the stock cast pistons won't take the heat at higher boost levels. Play it safe. Start with a small amount of boost. Make sure you have an air/fuel ratio and exhaust gas temp gauges on the car so you can monitor what's going on inside the engine. Also check the spark plugs from all 4 cylinders after you get everything back together and running properly. Look for discoloration on the porcelain insulator or electrode wear or the smell or gas or oil deposits. You can tell what the engine is doing under boost by "reading" the spark plugs. You might have to go to colder plugs, retard the timing, up the fuel pressure, etc. to get everything dialed in just right. Only then would I change wastegate spring pressures for more boost and when I was under boost I'd make sure I was at WOT so the engine is running open loop and I wouldn't keep the accelerator buried for more than 15-20 seconds at a time.
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Okay, so if i went to an 8 pound boost or even a 9 pound, would i need to intercool, or is straight turbo enough?
on any turbo its best to boost, the turbo heats up a lot more than a supercharger.
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and on a side note, is the 140hp the cavalier is listed at, at the wheels or at the crank?
the stock power numbers are listed at the crank.
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Stock compression on an Ecotec engine is 10:1. B&M's website has a chart showing how much boost you can run in an engine depending on the engine size cubic inch, compression ratio, etc.
on most engines, maybe you wouldnt, but for gm's ecotec, all stock internals are reliable up to 250 hp, and no sign of failure until 280hp-285hp. 11-12 psi should put you at that 250 mark, maybe a little above.
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on any turbo its best to boost, the turbo heats up a lot more than a supercharger.
Duh, im such a retard....boost should be intercool, sorry
