So far I have done is
Eagle Rods
Wiseco Pistons 8.9:1 comp .020" over
Balance and Blueprinted bottom end
Ported Saab Head and valve cover
GM Neutral Balance Shafts
RK Sport Crank underdrive pulley
ARP Headstuds
.400" lift and 232 duration intake and exhaust cams
Cometic head gasket
Venom High Flow Injectors
Aeromotive Fuel Regulator
High Rev Intank High Volume Fuel Pump
Saturn Motorsports Plasma Ignition System
Fidanza Flywheel
Spec stage 3 carbon six puck clutch and pressure plate
RKsport upper and lower urethane engine mounts
Carcustoms urethane transmission mounts
Phantom Grip Locker
Pacesetter coated header
Magnaflow catalytic converter
Borla Exhaust
Weapon R intake
Ported throttle body
RSM rear and front stress bars
Addco rear and front sway bars
Koni Yellow Adjustable
RKSport/H@R Coil overs
High Rev Crossmember Brace
ROH 17by8s all the way around
Pirelli PZero 235/40/17
I'm just breaking in the engine naturally aspirated right now for later boost applications, I don't know whether I want to go supercharger or turbo yet. If I won't be able to use that new software that Chris has been working on I know I will adapt the Accel DFI system to what ever I decide on.
What I want to know is have anybody built there own Ecotec engine yet with stronger internals, ported head, and aggressive cams?
As soon as I find out or anybody tells me how to apply pics and videos to this post, I'll set some up of what my car runs and looks like.
looks good, there's just one problem!
it should be in my car
u can ship it over anytime, lol
keep up the good work
im running the same setup as you as far as piston, rods, head, shafts. getting ready to put my hahn stage 2 back on and CRANK UP THE BOOST
04 Sunfire with a hole in the block
Hahn Stage II
350 H.P. to the ground coming very soon
does the saab head flow better than the cavalier head?? did u have to do any mods to the head or block to get it to work??
As far as a stock Saab head and a stock Cavalier head, I don't know if there is any difference in flow characteristics. I know that the Saab head is sand casted when the Cavalier head is styrofoam casted.
My Saab head was professionally ported on a 5 axis degree bench, so its no longer a stock Saab head. The Saab head bolts right up to the block but I did have to buy the expensive Saab Valve cover, have a cam carrier plate fabricated for the exhaust cam driver (on a Cavalier there is only one on the intake cam which the power steering pump is driven off), and radiator fliud vapor over flow fitting because the stock one from the cavalier head was too small.
I'll try to get a video out Saturday.
Sounds like a sweet setup. What does the Saab version drive off of the exhaust cam?
polished valve cover
aem cold air intake
62mm rsm throttle body
je flat top pistons
custom total seal gapless rings
eagle rods
autotrans intercepter
ported head
ferrea stainless steel oversized valves
3 angle valve job
rk upper and lower motor mounts
custom 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust with high flow cat and obx muffler
irridium plugs
nology hot wires and coil conversion
zex wet nitrous kit 100hp-?
11-1 compression ratio
polished crank
rk crank pulley
2003 fuel rail
03 fuel lines
holley 95-98 camaro adjustable fuel pressure regulater only used for n/a motor
t3 60 trim turbo
custom made turbo manifold
turboxs bov and boost controller
front mount intercooler
accell injecters 310cc
vortech fmu
5-7psi
super afc2
walbro fuel pump
stock 02 fuel system used for turbo
this has been rebuilt since 2003 and turboed since october of 04
How's it run off the stock pcm?
Right now its running pretty good except for the annoying rough idle because of the cams. I haven't got a chance to go WOT because I'm breaking it in properly but at half throttle it pulls with easy through the RPM.
If I can't get my hands on that new software from HP Tuners to dyno tune my fuel curve I'm afraid I'm going to be forced to install my stock cams back in.
The rough idle sounded cool the first week sitting at a stop light in mid-day traffic with the AC on but after a while it gets on your nerves that the fuel curve is off( which its wasting a lot of gas), the check engine light is on ( which is a big pet peive of mine), and the rough idle gets old quick.
My cams could have resided in the engine until I get the proper tuning IF it had a mass air flow sensor BUT speed density computers get extremely pissed off with cams other than what they were tuned for.
Still trying to get a video on but I can't find a host website that can support a video, do any of ya'll know a good website host to play a video?
Oh, 04firetec, I don't know what ran off the exhaust cam on the Saabs.
You may not want to use those cams anyway if you're planning on a supercharger or turbo down the road. For forced induction, valve overlap is very bad, so its best to use shorter duration cams.
I'm not too familiar with NA tuning, so I'm don't know how bad a 232 duration would be, but you should probably check that out before you go boosting away.
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mmmm.... Disco Potato goodness
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If that's 232 duration at 50 thousandths lift, then probably not the best for turbo, if it's at 0 lift, then turbo away!
How difficult was it to install the Phantom Grip in the ecotec tranny? Where/how much did you pay? How do you like it?
The cam is 232 @ .050" lift. I'm taking them out this weekend to put the stock ones back in. The stock ECU isn't working well my performance cams so the stock ones are going back in until HPTuners software comes out to dyno tune my engine.
On the phantom grip 04firetec, I'll build my own engines but I'll leave transmissions up to tranny pros. I had a Phantom Grip dealer and certified installer in Killeen,TX named Deep Stage Motorsports install it , all I did was take my tranny to them. They did it in about 6 hours and only charged me $180, it works great, the guy who intalled it said the owner of Phantom Grip said I had the only Phantom Grip in an Ecotec in the country. This was in November when they installed it, as far as performance, both are tires are definately locked.
Great modification for people with not enough cash for boost but want a to do a mod that actually makes a difference on a Ecotec.
On high speed turns off interstate exits, the car doesn't act like a front wheel drive with common understeer, your really able to dig into corners nose first instead of accelerating through the apex.
The only complain is if I take turns coming off the line with the both wheels locks, they tend to fight each other and skip which is characteristics in a rear wheel drive locker. After a little speed is built up, the drivetrain smooths out.
The last thing also is in deaccelerating with the tranny in gear, a little grinding noise comes out of the tranny like the open differential is fighting the locker.
But other than those two minor details, the Phantom Grip is well worth it.
You have to take in the bad with the good.
hey great work on your car. But as far as saying you were the first for many things you are wrong. i have been turbo'd for 2 yrs, Built motor for a year, and when i did that i also installed a phantom grip myself. I am not trying to be a a$$ but just letting you know. Anyways here are my mods
turbonetics T3/T04e .48 stage 3 wheel, 50 trim turbo,
turbonetics mark 3 deltagate wastegate,
Turbo X/S RFL type H BOV,
3" downpipe,
magnaflow muffler on end of down pipe,
ITS front mount intercooler,
2" IC piping on hot side,
2 1/2 IC piping on cold side,
Rksport light weight fly wheel,
Spec stage 3 clutch,
AutoLite 103 spark plugs,
phantom grip with green springs,
B&M short throw,
Beryllium Copper Spark Plug Conductors,
begi adjustable FMU,
Rk upper and lower motor mounts,
Wiseco 8.9:1 .020 OS pistons,
Eagle H-beam Rods,
SI 1mm oversized valves,
Full Ported and polished head,
balaced and blueprinted factory crank,
New GM rod and main bearings,
New GM timing Chain set,
O-ringed block,
SCE copper head gasket,
Walbro 255 lph intank fuel pump,
ARP head studs (new),
RC 550 CC injectors (new),
03 ecotec Fuel rail (new),
greddy emanage w/ all harnesses and sensors(new),
Self Ported 62mm TB(new),
Masterpower 60-1 turbo(new),
Turbosmart 38mm wastegate(new),
tubular turbo header(new),
Adjustable FPR (new),
Car Customs polyurathane tranny inserts(new),
Borla 3" id round XR1 muffler(new),
3" dump(new),
Everything marked new is what i am doing to it this winter. Everything else is how i ran it last year a 8 psi
Suspension mods
18 x 7.5 Racing hart C4's,
ground control coilovers,
self made front and rear strut tower braces,
Car Customs Lower Control arm Bushings (new),
Power stop cross drilled rotors,
Interior mods
rksport flame gauges,
autometer phantom boost gauge,
autometer phantom EGT gauge,
autometer phantom Fuel Pressure gauge,
Exterior mods
Hks type O turbo timer,
Lotek Triple Pod painted charcoal,
If your interested in custom aluminum tilt wheel levers hit me up!
Im familiar with lockers from my Jeep days, do you guys ever get a popping noise when making sharp turns? Or it it more like a limited slip?
BoostedEco glad one of the most bad ass Jbodys is here in the Tristate
hey BlackEco. Tristate huh. WV Jbody here. lets lay down something for a run against that bas ass jbody of yours.
ECOTEC DECALS FOR SALE ON EBAY. ITEM# 7968109432
LOL Im not laying anything down my J is slow. Where in WV? I am in Greensboro NC right now.
^ im from the charleston area of WV.
ECOTEC DECALS FOR SALE ON EBAY. ITEM# 7968109432
BoostedEco,
What are your dyno numbers? What are your times in the 1/4? Not to be a bean counter but I just want to know what a built engine is capable, supposely a good Ecotec will run 13s with a turbo, are you in that range?
Are you also running rich at idle? I'm breaking in my engine right now so the turbo isn't on yet, when it does go on I'll run the Accel DFI system and dyno tune it with some turbo cams.
I just saw your timeslip.
yeah 13.75 @ 104.39 mph and that run was a high 2.2 60 ft if i remember right. My best MPH is 105.85 but that run i spun thru 1st and 2nd. Yeah when i built my motor and got it back in the car i just ran it n/a for the break in then put the turbo back on. For fuel last year i was only running the fmu and a bigger fuel pump with stock injectors for 8psi of boost. I want to go with a full EMS but due to money being tight since i am buying a house i am just going to go with the greddy emanage and 550cc injectors and dyno tune it. With how the car was last year and it obviously wasn't tuned I dyno'd 217hp @ 5250 rpm and 241 ft/lbs @ 4750 rpm and it was also done on a mustang dyno which usually shows lower #'s than if i was to do it on a dyno jet.
As far as i know there are no production turbo cams out, so are you working with someone to get them made? Anyways good luck with your car and they are deff. fun and quite the sleeper
If your interested in custom aluminum tilt wheel levers hit me up!
Comp Cams has finally came out with turbo cams but you must have a EMS to tune your car to them.
It wouldn't be the case if some company can just retune the factory ECU in my 02 LS1, I'm running a 224/228 .555" intake and exhaust and had it dynotuned with LS1 Edit.
yeah it would be nice if the hp tuners software cam out cause that would be a hell of alot cheaper than a full EMS plus you don't have to do any splicing and wiring
If your interested in custom aluminum tilt wheel levers hit me up!
me wants.
