I have considered buying the new Hahn stage 2 turbo charger kit now available for the ecotecs. I was wondering if anyone has already installed this kit, or any other forced induction kits, and have some warnings or tips for the process.

just don't turn the boost up too high. you may get an unwanted durprise. <br>

im gonna do a hahn stage 2 kit and i read in the august issue of HCI that you can turn the boost up to 30-35 psi as long as you build the internals such as a new crank, Rods, Pistons and it is possible to get 400 whp.

that could take a while to build that much boost dont ya think? lol...Yeah that is probably the best turbo for the money...and aint it on sale?

Its an excellent value for the money, especially with the Gm supercharger looking more and more disappointing everyday...........

and remember if you turn up the boost then turn up the fuel........ <br>

anyone got pics of the Hahn turbo on the eco? <br>


2004 Cavalier ~ 15.98 - Bone Stock

yah i'd definately like to see some pics, of whats gonna be under my hood
as soon as my warranty is done that is.

Heres some pics you guys........





Those are off of Hahn's website, I wish we could get some better pics though, anybody out there got this installed on there car yet?? <br>

there are other kits out there people.
haasperformance.com
cavaleirconnection.com

they aren't talking about other kits buddy

the hahn is prob the highest quality kit out there but the engine management is it's weak point you will need something better than an FMU


1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85

Anyone know of the emissions legality of this kit? I am moving to Seattle next week and am going to be buying a second car thereafter (either an Ecotec Cav or an IROC-Z Camaro) to wrench on. However, Seattle emissions is the toughest around - the inspection centers are even state run (unlike here in Texas where you can just buy a sticker at a tire shop for $20, pass or fail).

Assuming it isn't emissions legal, how hard is it to uninstall? Seattle might have the toughest inspections around, but they are on two year cycles, which means you can just switch everything back to stock for your inspection and then bolt everything back on afterwards.

i am almost done with my custom kit. Evo 3 big 16g around 10psi. Thinking it will hit about 250 hp this is on the 2.2. now the only think that i am really geeking about is not going over 250 hp. until i build the motor. Because like the Hahn turbo kit i have a good amount of boost if i wanted to turn it up. think my turbo is only like 21psi, but i only paid $600 for it brand new, and then made the kit myself. Dayton import customs made me a log manifold. and are putting it all together as we speak. i should have it back next week some time. i can't wait. Watch as i school a mustang gt. that's gonna be so sweet.


David Siegel

I was wondering...why not just buy Saturn motorsports Stage 2 turbo that puts out about 300 hp? It's made for the same Ecotec. Go to www.saturnmotorsports.com and they got a lot of great stuff for upgrading your Ecotec. They even have a ported and polished head you can buy. But unfortunatly the online store is down right now for some reason.

Be sure to install forged rods and forged pistons in your engine. GM says the stock powdered metal connecting rods can't handle power levels over 250 HP. Also the stock cast pistons GM says have been tested to power levels approaching 300 HP (see www.gm.com/company/gmtunersource/html/race_shop_build_book.htm).
I'm using Eagle Rods in my 03' Cavalier w/2.2L Ecotec and Wiseco Pistons. I have the factory manual and gapped the rings to factory specs. I'm also using an LT-1 style adjustable fuel pressure regulator from Aeromotive, and a 225 LPH in-tank fuel pump. I'm using a "WET" NOS system w/ Fogger nozzle (26 NOS, 18 Fuel Jets).
Venom is supposed to be coming out with an aftermarket fuel rail for Ecotec engines. You might want to change out the stock fuel rail if you get this turbo kit.
The Hahn kit comes with a Fuel Management Unit (FMU) and new fuel injectors, so take advantage of this by making sure your engine gets the fuel it needs by changing out the fuel pump. Even if you up the fuel pressure via an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, you want to make sure the engine isn't starved for fuel under boost. APR has head studs for the Ecotec engine. I'd install these instead of using new head bolts. GM head bolts for Ecotec engines are torque-to-yield bolts. Use them once and you shouldn't use them again because of stretch. Head studs are the way to go and I'd use them. Depending on how much boost you plan to run, you may end up having to have the block and head O-ringed. There are kits from GM for this purpose.
Just make sure the engine doesn't run lean under boost. The cast pistons can't take much heat/pressure. An exhaust gas temp gauge, boost vacuum gauge and Air-Fuel ratio gauge will help you keep tabs on what's going on with the engine. More power to Ya!

does anyone know of a FMU that would work well with this turbo?
30-35 psi is alotta boost....i love it already

I know you've checked out the Hahn Eco-Friendly Ecotec info page. They aren't using stock internals (rods, pistons). Depending on how much power you plan to produce don't use stock internals. See this link for reasons why. http://www.gm.com/company/gmtunersource/html/race_shop_build_book.htm
I'm running a NOS NOSzle setup on my 03' Cavalier.
I would install an intank 255LPH fuel pump and not use the inline pump Hahn supplies. I'd use an Aeromotive LT1 style adjustable fuel pressure regulator (It bolts right on the stock fuel rail with no modification). I'd change out the fuel line from the filter using adapters so you can use 6AN line for feed and return lines. I'd also change the wiring from the fuel pump relay inside the engine bay to a single 8AWG wire to the wiring on the fuel tank to elimnate voltage drops. GM uses 18/16AWG wire and 3 connections (from the engine bay, inside the passenger compartment, and the bulkhead connector to the fuel tank) to supply voltage/current to the stock intank fuel pump. I'm not sure what the rating of the factory fuel pump is. But think about this. If the flow rating of the Hahn Inline pump is greater than the flow rating of the stock intake pump, how do you expect the stock pump to keep up with the demand placed on it. Imagine trying to fill a container using the stock fuel pump, with a hose connected to another fuel pump that pumps the fuel out of the container faster than the stock fuel pump can supply. Get the picture! Even if that container is full when both pumps are turned on eventually the stock fuel pump won't be able to keep up with the demand. You can't afford for the fuel pressure to vary when your under boost. Plus the electrical demand from running 2 fuel pumps is electrical energy better used someplace else. Yes it's easier to use the inline fuel pump but is it reliable in the long run. You can modify the fuel reservoir by drilling 2 holes in the bottom of it. The GM Sport Compact book shows a pix of this. I bought my 255LPH intank fuel pump from autoperformanceengineering.com. Their prices are reasonable and they have diagrams of flow vs. voltage, etc. Plus they sell the other little parts you might need to make the install a success.